Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Stracciatella Cheesecake


To the untrained eye Stracciatella Gelato, a common flavor found in Italian Gelaterias, could be equated to Vanilla Chocolate Chip Ice Cream. However, after considerable evaluation, I have come to the conclusion that Stracciatella Gelato and Vanilla Chip Ice Cream are in fact very dissimilar from one another. Stracciatella Gelato is white in color as opposed to Vanilla Chip Ice Cream that has a custard base resulting in a custard color. Unlike ice cream, real Italian gelato is often made without eggs or egg yolks (the contributing custard factor) and has less fat and less air than American ice cream, which ultimately results in a creamier confection with an entirely different taste. Stracciatella’s sweet cream base is studded with fine dark chocolate chip shavings, giving every creamy bite a subtle crunch, which I find much more satisfying than the harsh whole chocolate chips found in Vanilla Chip’s icier, airier counterpart. Now, I don’t mean to bad talk Vanilla Chip Ice Cream, but rather want to set the stage for the inspiration to the flavor and texture of this cheesecake.
Like ice cream, cheesecake has a many different styles based on its own criteria of flavors and textures. I can’t say that I am one of cheesecake’s most devout fans, as I have had many below par cheesecakes which where either too dry, too sweet, too rich, not rich enough, flavorless, etc. On the contrary, this cheesecake, like Stracciatella Gelato, has a smooth and creamy base with a depth of flavor (in this case from the addition of ricotta cheese) and also a delicate crunch from the chocolate shavings. Though unlike Stracciatella Gelato, Stracciatella Cheesecake does require eggs, yet the inside of the cake looks just the same as the gelato - a white cream base studded with dark chocolate shavings. Therefore, I it is only fitting to call this cheesecake, Stracciatella Cheesecake and not Chocolate Chip Cheesecake. Just as Stracciatella Gelato and Chocolate Chip Ice Cream are not interchangeable, Stracciatella Cheesecake and Chocolate Chip Cheesecake are not interchangeable, as they are entirely different entities.
I make my own crisp chocolate cookies for the crust (well worth the extra time as opposed to using store-bought cookies), and serve a tangy cherry sauce alongside the cheesecake, which isn’t obligatory, but compliments the cheesecake exceptionally well. The cheesecake needs to be baked one day ahead of time, and allowed time to set-up completely in the refrigerator. I bake this cake using a water bath, which is a very simple procedure. A water bath helps the cake cook evenly, ensuring a creamy confection.


Stracciatella Cheesecake

Serves 12

Ingredients
Crust
- 1 cup all purpose flour
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/4 unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2 cubes
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 tablespoon cream
Filling
- 1 1/2 pounds cream cheese, soft
- 1 1/4 cup sugar
- 8 ounces full fat ricotta cheese, at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 3 eggs, at room temperature
- 4 ounce bar good quality bittersweet chocolate

To make the cookie crust, combine the flour, sugar, salt and cocoa powder in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add the butter and pulse everything together until just combined. Add the egg yolk and cream and pulse until well combined. Remove the dough from the food processor and combine into a flat disk. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight. Roll the dough 1/4 inch thick and cut with a cookie cutter or knife into approximately 2 inch rounds or squares. Bake the cookies on a baking sheet, lined with parchment paper, at 350 degrees F for 13-15 minutes, or until crisp. Remove the cookies from the sheet pan and let cool completely. Pulse cooled cookies in a food processor. This process can be done up to 2 days ahead of time.
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees F. Boil some water to prepare for the water bath. Use a sharp knife to shave the chocolate bar into small pieces. Set aside.
Wrap aluminum foil tightly around a 9 inch springform pan. Press the cookie crumb mixture into the bottom of the springform pan. Refrigerate while preparing filling.
To make the filling, beat the cream cheese and sugar in a large mixing bowl fitted with a paddle attachment, until smooth. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and add ricotta cheese, vanilla, and salt, and blend together well. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the bowl after each addition. Fold in the chocolate chips by hand, and pour mixture on top of the crust. Set the cake pan into a large roasting pan, and pour hot water into the roasting pan so that it comes half way up the side of the cake pan. Carefully place both pans into the oven and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove both pans from the oven and carefully remove the cake from the water bath, remove the foil, and set aside on a wire wrack to cool completely. Refrigerate the cake overnight or for at least 8 hours.
When the cake is ready to be served run a sharp knife along side the edges of the pan and release and remove the sides of the springform pan. To slice the cake dip a large, sharp knife into hot water and wipe the knife dry with a clean towel before making each cut. Serve with the cherry sauce and enjoy. This cake will keep covered and refrigerated for up to five days.


Cherry Sauce

Ingredients
- 1 pound fresh or frozen bing cherries, pitted
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
- 1 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

Combine all the ingredients in a medium sized saucepan and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes. Take the pan off the burner and let cool 10 minutes. Use a hand held blender or place the sauce in a blender and puree for 30 seconds. Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Heat slightly in a small saucepan before serving.

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