In Season - Tomatoes and Basil

Summer is the season for the classic combination of tomatoes and basil. Here is a quick guide and a few recipes showcasing this fantastic duo.

Tomatoes and Basil with Fresh Burrata Cheese,
Sea Salt, Fresh Ground Pepper and Extra Virgin Olive Oil

About...


Tomatoes

How to buy: Tomatoes, which are a fruit not a vegetable, come in all shapes and sizes, which is totally irrelevant when it comes to having the best flavor. Look for unbruised and unblemished tomatoes that are vibrant in color, fragrant in smell and have a soft skin. The best tomatoes are ripened on the vine and are therefore not terribly firm at the time of sale. Nor should the tomatoes be sold too soft and overly ripe. The best time to buy tomatoes is towards the end of summer, when they are in the peak of their season. Though there are many varieties grown year round, out of season tomatoes are typically grown in a greenhouse, picked green, and ripened with ethylene on their way to the grocery store. Quite oppositely, heirloom tomatoes are grown from seed that have produced the same variety of tomatoes for many generations, without genetic modification.

Types and Uses: Beefsteak tomatoes are large and typically used for sandwiches and salads. Plum (or Roma) tomatoes are often used in cooking and are canned for tomato sauces. Heirlooms come in a variety of colors and sizes and are best to eaten raw and without too many competing flavors. Cherry and Grape tomatoes are small in size, and have a sweet flavor that can be incorporated into a variety of dishes.

How to Store: Keep tomatoes flat (never stacked on one another) on a plate, out on the kitchen counter. Tomatoes should never be refrigerated.

How to Chop: Depending on the size of the tomato use a very sharp chef's knife, pairing knife or medium size serrated knife. The type of knife one uses is not important, but rather using a sharp knife is, as to not bruise the skin and put pressure on tomato flesh. When working with medium to large tomatoes, begin by cutting the tomato in half; then place the tomato in your non dominate hand and use the knife to cut out the stem and rough part of the core. Depending on what you are using the tomato for, either cut the tomato into wedges or into slices to be diced. Cherry and Grape tomatoes need only to be cut in half or quarters.


Basil

How to buy: Use your nose first - if it doesn't smell like much then it certainly won't taste like much. Look for vibrant green leafs that are minimally bruised.

How to store: If you plan to use your basil the day you purchase it, place it in a small glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, allowing only the stems to touch the water. You can also wrap the basil in a moist towel or paper towel and store in the refrigerator, but often the leaves will turn black. Depending on the variety of basil that you buy, it will keep anywhere from 1 to 4 days. I have found that farm stand basil rarely lasts more than 24 hours before turning black, but the supermarket varieties tend to last 3 or 4 days. (Makes you think ?)

How to chop: The best time to chop basil is at the last minute during the preparation of your dish, since it tends to bruise and blacken immediately. Remove the basil leafs from its stem and place 5-6 leafs in a stack, with the largest leaf on the bottom. Use the large bottom leaf to roll the basil tightly lengthwise, then chop as thin as desired. Chopping basil in this manner is efficient, prevents bruising and provides and even cut.


Tomato Basil Bruschetta

Making perfect bruschetta:

1. Toast rustic European style bread just enough so it is crispy on the outside but still a bit chewy on the inside.
2. Use farm stand produce, starting with ripe, but slightly firm tomatoes and fragrant basil, both at their peak in the middle and end of summer. Use whatever type of tomato that you prefer, as long as it is a favorable one. You may also choose to remove the center core and seeds, especially if the core is tough and white.
3. Add just a pinch of sugar. This is a tip I picked up in Rossana’s kitchen, not to cover up poor quality produce, but to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.
4. Drizzle pungent extra virgin olive oil atop the bruschetta just before serving. With so few ingredients, quality is first priority, and here is the right occasion to pull out your cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. Add the olive oil, as well as the tomato basil mixture, upon the toasted bread at the last minute will prevent this classic appetizer from turning soggy.

Serves 4

4 large 1/3 inch slices of rustic bread, cut in half, or 8 small baguette size slices
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 1b tomatoes (plum, heirloom, cherry), diced into approximately 1/4 inch pieces
1/2 cup loosely packed basil leafs
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

To toast the bread, spread the bread slices on a baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in an oven pre-heated to 350 degrees F for about 10 minutes, flipping the bread slices half way through baking. Or toast the bread in a regular toaster and omit the drizzle of olive oil; Or heat the olive oil in medium sauté or grill pan and cook the toasts a few minutes on each side until slightly golden. (The cooking method is up to you – the goal is merely toasted bread.) Allow the bread to cool on a rack, then place on a plate or platter.
In a medium size bowl add the diced tomatoes. To cut the basil, place the leaves in a small stack (about 6 leaves at a time) and roll up tightly and roughly chop. Add to the tomatoes along with the garlic, salt, pepper and sugar. Gently toss together and taste for more salt and pepper. Evenly distribute the tomato basil mixture atop the toasted bread slices. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.


Warm Bulgur Wheat with Tomatoes and Basil
Bulgur Wheat is tender and mild, and the perfect grain for this dish. However, I have also used brown rice, cous cous and quinoa with equally satisfying results. I imagine that many different types of grain will work well in this dish, though the cooking time and method for each specific grain will vary.

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups water
3/4 cup bulgur wheat, rinsed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium tomatoes, cut into 1/3 inch slices
1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1/2 cup (loosely-packed) fresh basil, roughly chopped

Bring the water to a boil in a medium size saucepan. Add the bulgur wheat, cover and remove from the heat. Allow the bulgur wheat to sit with a lid for 20-25 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed.
Meanwhile, combine the salt, fresh ground pepper, garlic, lemon juice and red wine vinegar in a small bowl. While whisking, add the extra virgin olive oil.
When the bulgur wheat is tender, drain any excess liquid and place in a large serving bowl. Add the dressing, tomatoes and basil and gently toss together. Taste for more salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.


Tomato Basil Capellini
Capellini means little hairs in Italian, and that is exactly what this pasta is; extra thin hair-like strands. This pasta is best served with very light sauces since it tends to clump together. A heavy tomato sauce will drown capellini, unlike fresh uncooked tomato sauces, such as this one, that contain more moisture (water). Chop the tomatoes for this sauce ideally one hour in advance and season with salt to help draw out the moisture in the tomatoes. Salt, along with the other basic seasonings, brings out the delicate flavors of this simple summer dish.

Serves 6

Ingredients

15 ripe Roma tomatoes (about 3 pounds)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoons of sugar
1 large clove of garlic, minced
1 cup loosely packed basil leafs
1 pound capellini or angel hair pasta
1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half and remove the core of the tomatoes and discard; then chop the tomatoes and place in a large serving bowl. Add the salt, pepper, sugar, and garlic. (I use a garlic press to mince the garlic.) Toss all the ingredients together. Let this mixture stand at least 10 minutes or up to 2 hours at room temperature to allow the flavors to absorb and the water to extract from the tomatoes to help create the sauce. Chop the basil and add to the tomatoes at the last minute, otherwise the basil will start to turn black.
When the water comes to a boil cook add a tablespoon of salt and the pasta, and cook following the directions on its package until al dente, about 2 minutes. Careful; this pasta cooks quickly. Drain the pasta and immediately add to the serving bowl with the tomatoes. Gently toss the pasta into the tomato mixture. Drizzle the olive oil over the pasta. Garnish the pasta with a bit of Parmesan cheese, if desired. This pasta is wonderful warm or at room temperature.

In Need of More Tomato Basil Recipes? Check out:
Baby Arugula Salad with Roasted Veggies and Fresh Burrata Cheese - Aug. 7. 09
Audrey Hepburn's Favorite Pasta - Dec. 6. 09
or add a basil to:
Tomato Crisp - Sep. 1. 09
Spinach, Quinoa and White Cheddar Bake - Jan. 10. 10
Creamy Tomato Soup Jan. 18. 10

Celebrating Chocolate Cakes

Quite a few weeks back I spent most of an entire weekend baking celebration chocolate cakes. On Saturday a German Chocolate Cake for a graduation and on Sunday a Double Chocolate Layer Cake for Father's Day. These cake are variations of each other - one milk and one dark, yet with starkly different frostings. Both are wonderful recipes for whatever your celebration.


Milk Chocolate Cake with Coconut Pecan Frosting
This cake, also known as, German Chocolate Cake, is an American favorite (not a German one) whose name originated from its use of Baker’s German Sweet Chocolate in the recipe. What makes a German chocolate cake not a chocolate cake with a coconut pecan frosting, is the use of milk chocolate in its cake layers, and not semisweet or dark. When I walk into a bakery or cake shop and see layers of dark chocolate or devil’s food cake instead of milk chocolate in their “German Chocolate Cake,” it’s like nails against a chalkboard. It actually upsets me.
But when made correctly, moist milk chocolate cake layered between rich coconut pecan frosting is quite heavenly. I have been working on and looking for a good German Chocolate Cake for quite sometime now, and I have happily created a perfectly flavorful and tender milk chocolate cake to be layered between an adapted version of my Grandma’s recipe for Coconut Pecan Frosting. This recipe is scaled for a half sheet cake, which is perfect for serving a large crowd, but isn’t quite as attractive. See the cooking note below to alternatively make a 9 inch layer cake. Whatever size, a slice of this cake is the perfect choice to make any celebration a memorable one.



Makes 1 half sheet cake

Ingredients

Cake
3 cups all purpose flour
scant 1/2 cup cocoa powder (Green and Black’s)
2 teaspoons baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
12 oz. (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 1/4 cups granulated sugar
6 eggs
6 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
Frosting
12 oz. (1 can) evaporated milk
6 ounces (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
pinch of salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 eggs
14 oz (1 package) sweetened flaked coconut
1 1/2 cups pecans, slightly toasted, chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two half-sheet pans, and line the bottom of each with parchment paper. Set aside.
In a medium size bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
Using a double boiler, or carefully using the microwave, melt the milk chocolate in a medium bowl. Set aside and let cool.
In a medium bowl fitted for an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar on medium/high speed until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until each is incorporated, scraping down the sides of bowl as needed. Reduce the speed to low and add the melted chocolate and the vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture in two batches, alternating with the buttermilk; beating until combined after each addition.
Divide the batter evenly among the cake pans. Bake the cakes until a cake tester inserted in centers comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Do not over bake. Transfer the cake pans to wire racks and let cool.
Meanwhile, make the frosting. Heat the milk, butter and half of the sugar in a medium saucepan until almost simmering. Reduce the heat to low and add the vanilla and the salt. In a separate bowl combine the remaining sugar and the eggs. Whisk together well. (Do not allow the eggs and sugar to sit without being stirred, otherwise the sugar will cook the eggs.) Temper the egg mixture into the milk mixture. To do this, whisk the egg mixture and at the same time, pour a small amount (about 1/2 cup, 1 tablespoon at a time) of the hot milk mixture into the eggs. Then, return the pan with the remaining milk back to the stove. Whisk the warm milk, while slowly pouring the egg mixture into the warm milk. Cook the frosting over medium/low heat, while stirring, until thick, like a custard, about 10 minutes. Immediately pour the frosting through a sieve into a clean bowl. Stir in the coconut and the pecans. Set aside and let cool completely.
To assemble the cake, place one layer of the cake on a large plate or clean piece of cardboard wrapped in foil or paper. Remove the parchment paper. Spread half of the frosting evenly on the cake using an offset spatula. Carefully invert the second cake on top of the first. Frost with the remaining frosting. (You may also choose to frost the sides of this cake with chocolate ganache.) This cake is best, eaten the day it is made, but will keep up to 3 days in the refrigerator.

Cooking Note: To make a 9 inch cake, use 2 cups flour, 1/4 cup cocoa powder, 1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 8 oz (2 sticks) unsalted butter, 1 1/2 sugar, 4 eggs, 4 oz chocolate, 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract, 1 cup buttermilk for the cake and make in the exact same manner, but adjusting the cooking time to 20-25 minutes. However, the frosting does not need to be scaled down. Make the full recipe as follows and frost the sides of the cake if desired.

Double Chocolate Layer Cake with Rich Chocolate Frosting
Your classic chocolate cake.



Serves 12

Ingredients

Cake
2 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cocoa powder (Green and Black’s)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3 oz. dark chocolate (70%), chopped
1 oz. milk chocolate, chopped
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
4 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk
Frosting
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup confectioner’s sugar
pinch of salt
1 1b. dark chocolate (65%), chopped
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter two 9 inch cake pans. Line the bottom of each cake pan with parchment paper. Set aside.
In a medium size bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.
Using a double boiler, or carefully using the microwave, melt the dark and milk chocolate in a medium bowl. Set aside and let cool.
In a medium bowl fitted for an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar on medium/high speed until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until each is incorporated, scraping down the sides of bowl as needed. Reduce the speed to low and add the melted chocolate and the vanilla extract. Add the flour mixture in two batches, alternating with the buttermilk; beating until combined after each addition.
Divide the batter evenly among the cake pans. Bake the cakes until a cake tester inserted in centers comes out clean, about 20-25 minutes. Transfer the cake pans to wire racks and let cool for 10 minutes. Carefully run a knife alongside the edges of the cake and the pan; then invert the cake onto a flat plate. Remove the parchment paper. Invert the cake back onto a wire rack to cool completely.
To make the frosting, heat the sugar and milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat and add the salt, chocolate and vanilla extract. Let stand 1 minute, then stir until combined and smooth. Let the frosting cool 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until thick enough to frost the cake.
To assemble the cake, place one layer of the cake on a large cake plate or pedestal. Put about 2/3 cup frosting on the cake and use an offset spatula to evenly distribute the frosting. Place the second cake layer on top and use the remaining frosting on the top and sides of the cake. This cake is best, eaten the day it is made, when the cake is tender and light and the frosting is smooth and soft. Refrigerating the cake will cause the frosting to turn harder, more like the center of a truffle, which is also delicious, but entirely different.

Weeknight Dinner

Cucumber and Goat Cheese Toasts
Red Quinoa with Arugula, Roasted Vegetables
and Lemon Pistachio Gremolata



Cucumber and Goat Cheese Toasts
Spread approximately 1 teaspoon of plain goat cheese atop fresh or toasted bread. Top with thinly sliced cucumber and place on a plate or platter. Drizzle over a bit of extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt and pepper.

Red Quinoa with Arugula, Roasted Vegetables
and Lemon Pistachio Gremolata
This recipe is adapted from my Moroccan Quinoa with Roasted Fall Vegetables. Here I use red quinoa instead of white, which I thought had a more delicate flavor, and toss in a bit of fresh arugula. I also use seasonal summer vegetables and instead of topping off the dish with goat cheese, I make a wonderfully flavorful Lemon Pistachio Gremolata. This tangy, buttery topping is what really makes this simple vegan dish truly flavorful. To be honest, this gremolata is the most successful part of the dish and since making it, a few weeks back, I have being trying to think of what else this nutty topping could grace – maybe atop a goat cheese crostini or maybe tossed into some plain grains …




Serves 4

Ingredients

1 medium (white) sweet potato, peeled, diced into 1 inch cubes
4 medium carrots, cut into 1 pieces
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
3 small zucchini, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 medium yellow or crookneck squash, cut into 1 inch pieces
1 1/2 cups quinoa
2 cups baby arugula
Gremolata
zest of 1 lemon and juice of half
1/2 cup shelled pistachios, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt
pinch fresh ground pepper
1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. In a large roasting pan, toss together the sweet potato, carrot and onion with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast the vegetables for approximately 30 minutes, or until slightly caramelized. Remove the pan from the oven and add the zucchini and crookneck squash. Toss together with the hot veggies, add more oil, if needed, and return to the oven for 18-20 more minutes, or until all of the veggies are slightly caramelized.
Meanwhile, rinse the quinoa well in a fine sieve. In a medium saucepan bring 3 cups of water to a boil. Stir in the quinoa, cover and reduce the heat to a simmer until all of the liquid is absorbed, about 15-20 minutes. Season the quinoa with salt and pepper and transfer to a large serving platter or bowl. Add the baby arugula to the warm quinoa and toss together to wilt the arugula.
To make the gremolata, mix all of the ingredients together in a small bowl. Set aside until ready to serve.
When the vegetables are caramelized, remove from the oven, season with a bit more salt. Serve the warm vegetables over the quinoa and top with a bit of the gremolata.

June Gloom in July

Last month I mentioned that once I had my computer back I would post a recipe for Spicy Tortilla Soup - a recipe that was intended to be posted during our long and dreary June Gloom episode. But then "the crash" occurred and June came and went and so did the gloomy weather. I began to think that I was crazy for considering a blog post for a soup recipe in the midst of summer, especially after last week's little heat spell. Fortunately, the heat has dissipated and sunny San Diego has returned to its weather of typical coastal haze. So... I thought I might be able to get away with posting my June Gloom Soup recipe even though it's a bit delayed.






Spicy Tortilla Soup
This soup is actually one that could be served year round - nothing particularly designates it to a specific season. It's rather light and brothy and is a good warm summer soup - if there is such a thing. The soup is a bit spicy, which can be adjusted to your own taste, and as usual is very basic and easy to make. It is really all about the toppings -fresh baked tortilla chips, ripe avocado, fragrant cilantro, creamy goat cheese and a squeeze of lime makes up the true essence of this tasty soup.


Serves 6

Ingredients

Tortilla Strips
6 corn tortillas, cut into strips
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt

Soup
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 yellow or white onion, finely diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalepeno, seeds and core removed, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
14 ounces crush tomatoes
8 cups homemade vegetable stock (or 5 cups store bought and 3 cups water)
1 bunch fresh cilantro
1-2 ripe avocados, cut into slices or bite size pieces
4 ounces goat cheese
2-3 limes, cut into wedges
salt
fresh ground pepper


Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Toss the tortilla strips with the olive oil and salt on a large baking sheet. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes.
In a large heavy bottom saucepan heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, jalepeno, cumin and chili powder and cook for 1 minute more. Add the tomatoes, and 1 cup of stock and cook for 5 minutes over medium/low heat. Turn off the heat and puree with a hand held food blender, until smooth. Add the remaining stock, season with a bit more salt and pepper and bring everything to a simmer over medium heat. Let the soup simmer without a lid for 20-30 minutes. Taste for spiciness. You can add more chili powder if you want a spicier soup.
Serve the hot soup in individual bowls and top with a handful of the tortilla strips, a sprig of cilantro, chunks of avocado, and a tablespoon or so of goat cheese. Squeeze a wedge of lime over the soup, if desired.

Back in Business

Finally... I have my computer back - with recipes, photos and all of my work. I never thought I could be excited about an electronic device.
Anyhow, I certainly haven't taken a break from cooking this past month or so, and I have a backlog of wonderful summer recipes to share. Coming soon...

Technical Difficulties

I apologize for my absence the past couple weeks. But… honestly I have a good excuse.

The dog didn’t eat my homework, my car didn’t break down on the way to work, and trust me, I haven’t been on a long tropical vacation anywhere.

My computer died. Well, actually the hard drive on my laptop (where all of my recipes, photos and work is stored) died – at least that is according to the guy at the apple store.

Yet, before I make any formal funeral arrangements, I am sending my computer to a data recovery computer service in hopes to retrieve years worth of work.

It’s a shame, too, because I had some great blog posts planned for the month. With all of the June gloom I made a Spicy Tortilla Soup with Goat Cheese and wanted to share a wonderful weekend of Chocolate Cakes. But I guess it will have to wait until next month, when hopefully I will have my recipes and photos back. (And you don’t have to say – I’ve learned my lesson, I will also be backing up my work onto an external hard drive.) So, please keep your fingers crossed for me.

I also look forward to posting some great summer recipes including:

Hand Cut Pasta with Basil Pesto, Green Beans and Potatoes
Summer Panzanella (Bread Salad)
Red Quinoa with Arugula and Roasted Veggies and a Lemon Pistachio Gremolata

A Quick and Easy Dessert

Chocolate Chunk Oatmeal Blondies
These bars are chewy and loaded with oatmeal and chocolate chunks, and can become quite addicting. I think these bars will make the perfect dessert to take to your upcoming summer barbecues, as they are quick and stress-free to make, cut easily and clean, and stack and transport well.

Makes 24

Ingredients

- 3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 1 cup packed brown sugar
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 eggs
- 2 cups all purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 1/3 cups oatmeal
- 1 1/2 cups chocolate chips/chunks (semi-sweet, dark, milk)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9 by 13 inch baking dish and line the bottom with parchment paper. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugars. Add the vanilla extract and the eggs, one at a time. Add the flour, salt and baking powder and gently stir everything together. Add the oats and chocolate chunks. Use a spatula to evenly spread the dough into the baking dish. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until light brown on the edges. Let cool completely. Cut into squares. These bars will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.