Wednesday, August 4, 2010

In Season - Tomatoes and Basil

Summer is the season for the classic combination of tomatoes and basil. Here is a quick guide and a few recipes showcasing this fantastic duo.

Tomatoes and Basil with Fresh Burrata Cheese,
Sea Salt, Fresh Ground Pepper and Extra Virgin Olive Oil

About...


Tomatoes

How to buy: Tomatoes, which are a fruit not a vegetable, come in all shapes and sizes, which is totally irrelevant when it comes to having the best flavor. Look for unbruised and unblemished tomatoes that are vibrant in color, fragrant in smell and have a soft skin. The best tomatoes are ripened on the vine and are therefore not terribly firm at the time of sale. Nor should the tomatoes be sold too soft and overly ripe. The best time to buy tomatoes is towards the end of summer, when they are in the peak of their season. Though there are many varieties grown year round, out of season tomatoes are typically grown in a greenhouse, picked green, and ripened with ethylene on their way to the grocery store. Quite oppositely, heirloom tomatoes are grown from seed that have produced the same variety of tomatoes for many generations, without genetic modification.

Types and Uses: Beefsteak tomatoes are large and typically used for sandwiches and salads. Plum (or Roma) tomatoes are often used in cooking and are canned for tomato sauces. Heirlooms come in a variety of colors and sizes and are best to eaten raw and without too many competing flavors. Cherry and Grape tomatoes are small in size, and have a sweet flavor that can be incorporated into a variety of dishes.

How to Store: Keep tomatoes flat (never stacked on one another) on a plate, out on the kitchen counter. Tomatoes should never be refrigerated.

How to Chop: Depending on the size of the tomato use a very sharp chef's knife, pairing knife or medium size serrated knife. The type of knife one uses is not important, but rather using a sharp knife is, as to not bruise the skin and put pressure on tomato flesh. When working with medium to large tomatoes, begin by cutting the tomato in half; then place the tomato in your non dominate hand and use the knife to cut out the stem and rough part of the core. Depending on what you are using the tomato for, either cut the tomato into wedges or into slices to be diced. Cherry and Grape tomatoes need only to be cut in half or quarters.


Basil

How to buy: Use your nose first - if it doesn't smell like much then it certainly won't taste like much. Look for vibrant green leafs that are minimally bruised.

How to store: If you plan to use your basil the day you purchase it, place it in a small glass of water, like a bouquet of flowers, allowing only the stems to touch the water. You can also wrap the basil in a moist towel or paper towel and store in the refrigerator, but often the leaves will turn black. Depending on the variety of basil that you buy, it will keep anywhere from 1 to 4 days. I have found that farm stand basil rarely lasts more than 24 hours before turning black, but the supermarket varieties tend to last 3 or 4 days. (Makes you think ?)

How to chop: The best time to chop basil is at the last minute during the preparation of your dish, since it tends to bruise and blacken immediately. Remove the basil leafs from its stem and place 5-6 leafs in a stack, with the largest leaf on the bottom. Use the large bottom leaf to roll the basil tightly lengthwise, then chop as thin as desired. Chopping basil in this manner is efficient, prevents bruising and provides and even cut.


Tomato Basil Bruschetta

Making perfect bruschetta:

1. Toast rustic European style bread just enough so it is crispy on the outside but still a bit chewy on the inside.
2. Use farm stand produce, starting with ripe, but slightly firm tomatoes and fragrant basil, both at their peak in the middle and end of summer. Use whatever type of tomato that you prefer, as long as it is a favorable one. You may also choose to remove the center core and seeds, especially if the core is tough and white.
3. Add just a pinch of sugar. This is a tip I picked up in Rossana’s kitchen, not to cover up poor quality produce, but to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.
4. Drizzle pungent extra virgin olive oil atop the bruschetta just before serving. With so few ingredients, quality is first priority, and here is the right occasion to pull out your cold pressed extra virgin olive oil. Add the olive oil, as well as the tomato basil mixture, upon the toasted bread at the last minute will prevent this classic appetizer from turning soggy.

Serves 4

4 large 1/3 inch slices of rustic bread, cut in half, or 8 small baguette size slices
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 1b tomatoes (plum, heirloom, cherry), diced into approximately 1/4 inch pieces
1/2 cup loosely packed basil leafs
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

To toast the bread, spread the bread slices on a baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake in an oven pre-heated to 350 degrees F for about 10 minutes, flipping the bread slices half way through baking. Or toast the bread in a regular toaster and omit the drizzle of olive oil; Or heat the olive oil in medium saut̩ or grill pan and cook the toasts a few minutes on each side until slightly golden. (The cooking method is up to you Рthe goal is merely toasted bread.) Allow the bread to cool on a rack, then place on a plate or platter.
In a medium size bowl add the diced tomatoes. To cut the basil, place the leaves in a small stack (about 6 leaves at a time) and roll up tightly and roughly chop. Add to the tomatoes along with the garlic, salt, pepper and sugar. Gently toss together and taste for more salt and pepper. Evenly distribute the tomato basil mixture atop the toasted bread slices. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil. Serve immediately.


Warm Bulgur Wheat with Tomatoes and Basil
Bulgur Wheat is tender and mild, and the perfect grain for this dish. However, I have also used brown rice, cous cous and quinoa with equally satisfying results. I imagine that many different types of grain will work well in this dish, though the cooking time and method for each specific grain will vary.

Serves 4

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups water
3/4 cup bulgur wheat, rinsed
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
3 cloves garlic, sliced
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 medium tomatoes, cut into 1/3 inch slices
1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1/2 cup (loosely-packed) fresh basil, roughly chopped

Bring the water to a boil in a medium size saucepan. Add the bulgur wheat, cover and remove from the heat. Allow the bulgur wheat to sit with a lid for 20-25 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed.
Meanwhile, combine the salt, fresh ground pepper, garlic, lemon juice and red wine vinegar in a small bowl. While whisking, add the extra virgin olive oil.
When the bulgur wheat is tender, drain any excess liquid and place in a large serving bowl. Add the dressing, tomatoes and basil and gently toss together. Taste for more salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.


Tomato Basil Capellini
Capellini means little hairs in Italian, and that is exactly what this pasta is; extra thin hair-like strands. This pasta is best served with very light sauces since it tends to clump together. A heavy tomato sauce will drown capellini, unlike fresh uncooked tomato sauces, such as this one, that contain more moisture (water). Chop the tomatoes for this sauce ideally one hour in advance and season with salt to help draw out the moisture in the tomatoes. Salt, along with the other basic seasonings, brings out the delicate flavors of this simple summer dish.

Serves 6

Ingredients

15 ripe Roma tomatoes (about 3 pounds)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoons of sugar
1 large clove of garlic, minced
1 cup loosely packed basil leafs
1 pound capellini or angel hair pasta
1/3 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half and remove the core of the tomatoes and discard; then chop the tomatoes and place in a large serving bowl. Add the salt, pepper, sugar, and garlic. (I use a garlic press to mince the garlic.) Toss all the ingredients together. Let this mixture stand at least 10 minutes or up to 2 hours at room temperature to allow the flavors to absorb and the water to extract from the tomatoes to help create the sauce. Chop the basil and add to the tomatoes at the last minute, otherwise the basil will start to turn black.
When the water comes to a boil cook add a tablespoon of salt and the pasta, and cook following the directions on its package until al dente, about 2 minutes. Careful; this pasta cooks quickly. Drain the pasta and immediately add to the serving bowl with the tomatoes. Gently toss the pasta into the tomato mixture. Drizzle the olive oil over the pasta. Garnish the pasta with a bit of Parmesan cheese, if desired. This pasta is wonderful warm or at room temperature.

In Need of More Tomato Basil Recipes? Check out:
Baby Arugula Salad with Roasted Veggies and Fresh Burrata Cheese - Aug. 7. 09
Audrey Hepburn's Favorite Pasta - Dec. 6. 09
or add a basil to:
Tomato Crisp - Sep. 1. 09
Spinach, Quinoa and White Cheddar Bake - Jan. 10. 10
Creamy Tomato Soup Jan. 18. 10

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