For the End of Summer

Hand Cut Pasta with Basil Pesto, Green Beans and Potatoes
As the curtains close on this summer's stage, I thought it would be appropriate to share my adaption of a classic Italian summer dish.


Green beans and potatoes may seem like an odd addition to pesto and pasta, however they are commonly found in this classic dish that originated in Genova, Italy. The first time I ate this dish was in one of the beautiful towns of La Cinque Terra, on the Linguaria coast of Italy. I was fifteen, at the time, and food was low on my lists of interest. So the fact that over 10 years later I can distinctly remember devouring this pasta, washing it down with an ice cold sprite, while sitting over the cliffs of the Mediterranean sea on a warm summer day, is a testament to how truly wonderful this dish really is. At an age where little impressed me, the rich flavors of this dish certainly left an impression on me.
In the recipe that follows, I cut fresh lasagna sheets by hand, yet any long fresh noodle will be wonderful too. And of course, store-bought linguine or spaghetti will work perfectly too. Just make sure to adjust your cooking time –fresh pasta takes a few minutes unlike dried pasta.
The key for this dish, as usual, is using the best quality ingredients. That means – fresh, fragrant basil; cold pressed extra virgin olive oil, and real Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Using anything less in this classic pesto is really just a waste of your time. I also like to use the small haricots verts, green beans, but if you can’t find them (as I couldn’t this time), any type of green bean will do. Creamy white or Yukon potatoes are best. In traditional Pesto Genovese the green beans and potatoes are cut up fairly small and play a lesser role against the pasta and pesto, however in this rendition of the dish, I wanted to serve the vegetable course and pasta all in one, so I went heavy on the green beans and potatoes. You can adjust the amount of vegetables to your own taste.




Hand Cut Pasta with Basil Pesto, Green Beans and Potatoes

Serves 6

1 large bunch fresh basil leaves (about 3 cups)
1/3 cup raw pine nuts, plus more for garnish
1 large clove of garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
3/4 cup of freshly graded Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1 pound fresh pasta sheets, cut into strips or fresh pasta noodles
2 cups fresh green beans, trimmed and cut into 1/2 pieces
3-4 small white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/3 inch cubes


To make the pesto, place the clean basil leaves (stems removed), pine nuts, garlic, salt and pepper in a large food processor. Blend until chopped. With the machine running, pour the olive oil into the small hole on the top of the food processor in a slow and steady stream. When the mixture is smooth and creamy add Parmesan cheese. Pulse until just combined. This mixture should be me made no more than one hour ahead of time or the basil will oxidize and turn black.
Fill both a medium and large pot with water. Bring both to a boil and add a teaspoon of salt to each.
Place the peeled potatoes in the medium pot of water and cook for about 5 minutes; then add the green beans. Cook for another 5 minutes or until both the potatoes and green beans are tender. Test with a fork. Drain the water from the potatoes and green beans, season with a bit of salt and pepper and set aside.
Meanwhile, add the fresh pasta to the large pot of boiling water and cook for about 3 minutes, or until al dente, but cooked through. Place the noodles and 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water in a large serving bowl or platter. Pour the pesto over the noodles and toss together. If the pesto is still clumpy add another 1/2 cup or so of the pasta water. Gently toss in the warm potatoes and green beans. Serve in individual bowls and garnish with more Parmesan cheese, a drizzle of olive oil and a few pine nuts, if desired.

Roasted Beets

Beets have a very distinct flavor that certainly doesn't appeal to all, but dislike of this sweet root vegetable is likely because it overpowered a dish as the showcased ingredient (as with borscht), instead of working as part of a dish, complimenting other flavors as well as its own. As with all vegetables, fresh and in season is a distinctly different species than the canned variety, and unfortunately many of us are first exposed to the latter of the two. Roasting beets in a hot oven brings out their natural sugars which caramelize and concentrate and ironically mellow their pungent flavor. If you aren't totally convinced, try golden beets, which I find to be a bit more mild in flavor than their darker red cousins. (And not quite as messy either.)
These two recipes exemplify how beets can compliment a dish instead of overpower it.

Crostini with Golden Beets and Walnut Parsley Pesto
Wheatberry Salad with Roasted Beets, Grapefruit and Walnuts



Crostini with Golden Beets and Walnut Parsley Pesto
The different flavors in this two-bite appetizer compliment each other exceptionally well. The sweet roasted beets are balanced perfectly with the bit of bitterness from the fresh parsley and raw garlic in the pesto. I use fresh local walnuts that make all of the difference in this simple dish.


Serves 4

Ingredients

- 5-6 small golden beets
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
Crostini
- 1/2 of a french baguette
Pesto
- 1/2 cup walnut halves, lightly toasted
- 3/4 cup loosely packed fresh leaf parsley (about half of a bunch)
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- pinch of fresh ground pepper
- 2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. To make the crostini, slice the baguette at an angle about 1/3 inch thick. Arrange the bread slices on a large baking sheet and bake for 10-15 minutes, or until light golden brown and crisp. Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, fill a medium size saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Place the beets in the boiling water and cook for 7-8 minutes, or until fork tender. Drain the beets and let sit for 25 minutes; then peel the skins off of the beets. Cut into 1/4 inch slices and place on a sheet pan. Toss with the olive oil and season with the salt and fresh ground pepper. Roast the beets in an oven preheated to 400 degrees F until caramelized, about 35 minutes. Set aside and let cool.
To make the pesto, finely chop the parsley and walnuts, or place in a food processor and pulse until minced. Add the minced garlic, lemon juice, salt, pepper and olive oil. Taste for more salt and pepper and lemon juice, depending on the strength of the lemon.
To assemble the crostini place the toasted breads on a large serving plate. Top each a few slices of the warm beets and a tablespoon of the pesto.

Wheatberry Salad with Roasted Beets, Grapefruit and Walnuts
This hearty salad makes a wonderful side dish or lunch entrée served with mixed greens and avocado slices.

The beets changed the colors of the wheatberries in a matter of minutes.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

- 1 cup soft wheatberries, rinsed
- salt
- 8 small beets
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- fresh ground pepper
- 2 medium grapefruit
- 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon agave
- 1 tablespoon red onion, finely diced
- 1/2 cup walnuts halves, lightly toasted, roughly chopped
- 1/3 cup (loosely-packed) fresh flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped

To cook the wheatberries, combine 3 cups of water, the wheatberries and 1 teaspoon of salt in a medium size saucepan. Bring to a boil with a lid over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, over low heat for 50 minutes, or almost all of the liquid is absorbed and the grains are tender. (They should be cooked all the way through and be a bit chewy.)
Meanwhile, fill a medium size saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Place the beets in the boiling water and cook for 7-8 minutes, or until fork tender. Drain the beets and let sit for 25 minutes; then peel the skins off of the beets. Cut into 1/2 inch pieces and place on a sheet pan. Toss with the 2 teaspoons of olive oil and season with salt and fresh ground pepper. Roast the beets in an oven preheated to 400 degrees F until caramelized, about 35 minutes. Set aside and let cool.
Use a sharp knife to cut the top and bottom off of the grapefruit. Place on a cutting board and cut downward to remove the skin. Use a sharp paring knife to cut out the grapefruit segments, slicing between the membranes. Work over a bowl to catch the juice. Set the segments aside. Place 1/4 cup of the grapefruit juice in a small bowl. Add the agave, a 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper. While whisking, add the extra virgin olive oil. Set the dressing aside.
When the wheatberries are tender, drain any excess liquid and place in a large serving bowl. Add the dressing and red onion and gently toss together. Let cool 10 minutes; then add the roasted beets, grapefruit segments, walnuts and parsley. Gently toss everything together. Taste for more salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature.

Whole Wheat Pasta

It seems that practically overnight boxes of pasta made from all sorts of exotic grains (spelt, quinoa, rice, millet) have quickly cluttered the shelves in the pasta aisle. I imagine it will stay that way until the "gluten free" craze fades away. Seeing new interesting products on the shelves is exciting to me and definitely worth a try or two, even if I’m not gluten intolerant. Well, after a few tries (and it only took a few) I have concluded that taking away the gluten in pasta is like taking away the love in a marriage. A marriage without love is unpleasant and will ultimately break down and fall apart – likewise – pasta without gluten is pretty unpleasant too, and will also break down and fall apart. If you have ever made gluten free pasta, then you know what I am talking about.
Gluten is formed by the proteins present in wheat flour and develops with water when agitated. Gluten is the elasticity and extensibility essential to making breads and so many baked goods. It is what makes pasta so chewy and delicious. Since gluten is naturally formed by the protein in wheat products, flours that contain more protein develop gluten more easily, which is why one uses bread flour (which has a protein content of 11-13%) when they want a to develop the gluten for a chewy bread product, or uses cake flour (which has a protein content of 6-9%) when they don’t want to develop the glutens for a delicate cake and tender crumb. Traditional pasta is made from semolina, which comes from durum flour, which is milled from the endosperm of the durum wheat kernel. The endosperm makes up 83% of the total wheat kernel and has the largest amount of protein and starch. The rest of the wheat kernel is composed of the bran (14.5%), which contains the majority of the fiber and the germ (2.5 %), which contains the majority of the nutrients. This may be more information than you wanted to know about wheat, but what I am trying to make clear is that durum flour is made from the part of the wheat kernel devoid of the bran (fiber) and germ (nutrients) because it is the starch and protein from the endosperm that is so crucial to the development of gluten, which is essential to that wonderful chewy texture of traditional semolina pasta. Grains such as quinoa, rice, oats and spelt contain little or no gluten and therefore are biologically incapable of developing the elasticity and texture of any wheat product. It is the strands of gluten that hold everything together, which is why gluten free pastas fall apart.
Now, if you have to, or choose to eat a gluten free diet for health and dietary purposes that is one thing, but if you are like me and merely interested in trying out healthier pasta alternatives (remember durum pasta was stripped of much of its fiber and nutrients), I suggest opening a box of whole wheat pasta. Unlike durum flour, which is milled from only the endosperm of the wheat kernel, whole wheat flour is milled from the entire wheat kernel and therefore contains a higher amount of fiber, nutrients and protein. Whole wheat is not always used in pasta and other baked goods because it has a shorter shelf life, but mainly because it has a distinct flavor that is not always desired in the finished product. (Imagine eating a whole wheat cupcake under a cloud of chocolate buttercream – yuck!) However, there are many occasions where the nutty flavor of whole wheat is very appropriate and very welcomed. Pasta is one of those occasions. Whole wheat pasta has a distinct flavor that I find tastes best when brightened with complimenting ingredients rather than covered up with a heavy sauce. Whole wheat pasta does not contain as much gluten as semolina durum pasta, but has enough gluten that it will not completely fall apart. Though I have been arguing hard for the glories of gluten I also like to eat a diet high in fiber and nutrients and very often all of those tasty gluteny treats (cupcakes, bread, pizza and pasta) aren’t the most health conscious choice. When it comes to pasta I have found that whole wheat has just the right balance – it is healthy and nutritious yet won’t totally fall apart on me.
So without further ado, here are three whole wheat spaghetti dishes (my favorite whole wheat noodle) that boasts the wonderful and distinct flavor of whole wheat pasta.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Almond Parsley Pesto, Lemon
and Pecorino
Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta
Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Kale, Rainbow Chard, Fennel
and Pine Nuts



Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Almond Parsley Pesto, Lemon and Pecorino
Whole wheat pasta is a perfect choice for this robust pesto.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 3 cups flat leaf parsley, stems removed
- 1/2 cup raw sliced almonds
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
- pinch red pepper flakes
- 1/2 extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/3 cup grated Pecorino cheese, plus more for garnish
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 1/3 cup lemon juice
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti

To make the pesto, place the parsley, almonds, garlic, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes in a food processor. Pulse until the ingredients are finely chopped. With the machine running, pour the olive oil into the food processor in a slow and steady stream. When the mixture is smooth and creamy add the Parmesan cheese, Pecorino cheese, lemon zest and lemon juice. Pulse a few more times, until just combined. This mixture can be made up to a day ahead of time, but cover the top of the pesto with plastic wrap to prevent it from turning brown.
To make the pasta, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until tender, according to the package instructions. (I do not cook whole wheat pasta al dente or it is chalky and dry in the middle.) When the pasta done, drain and transfer into a large serving bowl. Toss the pesto into the warm pasta and drizzle over more extra virgin olive oil and garnish with the Pecorino cheese shavings. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta
The flavors of this dish were inspired from my favorite pizza toppings from a pizzeria located just across the street from the school I attended in Florence, Italy. Though there pizza was delicious, it was the spinach and ricotta on top of the pizza that I couldn’t get enough of. I make this dish over and over again because it makes a truly satisfying complete meal – wholesome wheat pasta, slightly caramelized onions and lots of dark spinach greens makes this dish hearty and filling, while creamy ricotta cheese brings out decadence that is balance out with earthy pine nuts and subtle kick from red pepper flakes. Plus, I can prepare everything for this dish in the time it takes for the pasta water to come to a boil.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 1 1/2 cups ricotta cheese
- zest of 1 lemon
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 1 medium white onion, sliced
- 2 shallots, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, diced
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
- 1 pound baby spinach, washed
- 1/3 cup pine nuts
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup freshly graded Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large serving dish, toss together the ricotta cheese and the lemon zest. Set aside.
In another medium/large pot heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil on medium heat. Add the onion, shallots, garlic and season with salt and pepper. Sauté the mixture on medium/low heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes. Meanwhile, when the salted water comes to a boil, add the whole wheat spaghetti and cook until tender according to the directions on the package. Once the onions are soft, translucent and a bit caramelized, add 1/3 of the spinach and toss together with the onions. When the spinach has cooked down add another 1/3 of the spinach. Let that cook down, and add the last 1/3 of the spinach. When the pasta is tender add the pasta to the large serving dish with the ricotta cheese mixture. Add the spinach and onion mixture, pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil and Parmesan cheese to the pasta; Toss everything together and serve warm.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Kale, Rainbow Chard,
Fennel and Pine Nuts
This simple pasta dish, full of nutrient rich ingredients, is a vegan spin off from my Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta. Certainly you can add a bit of Parmesan cheese to this dish, but it doesn’t really need it. On nights when I want to forgo dairy for whatever the reason I am pleasantly reminded that I don’t need to cover up the flavors of my food, with whether it be cheese, butter, salt or pepper, or else I miss out on the depth of flavors in the real ingredients of the dish. Here sweet fennel and onions contrast well with the slightly bitter greens and allow the nuttiness of the whole wheat pasta to really shine through. This dish is definitely one to make in late fall or winter when you can find fresh extra virgin olive oil, which is typically harvested in late fall. Talk about flavor – fresh olive oil is spicy, fruity and pungent – it is the condiment Italians wait all year for to flavor their favorite dish.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
- 1 fennel bulb, cut in 1/2 inch pieces
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
- 1 medium tomato, diced
- 1 bunch Kale (about 10 cups uncooked), washed, chopped
- 1 bunch Rainbow or Red Chard (about 10 cups), washed, chopped
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1/3 cup pine nuts
- salt
- fresh ground pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large sauté pan heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil on medium heat. Add the onions and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Sauté the mixture on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion and fennel are soft and slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes.
Meanwhile, when the salted water comes to a boil, add the whole wheat spaghetti and cook until tender, according to the directions on the package. (Note: whole wheat pasta should not be cooked al dente as you would with semolina pasta. It should be tender and cooked all the way through, and not overcooked and gummy.)
Once the onions are soft, translucent and a bit caramelized, add the diced tomato, and chopped kale and chard. Season with salt and pepper and cover the pot with a lid or stir the greens with a spoon until they are wilted. When the greens are wilted and the pasta is cooked, toss everything together in a large serving bowl. Stir in the pine nuts and drizzle over the extra virgin olive oil. Serve warm.