Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Whole Wheat Pasta

It seems that practically overnight boxes of pasta made from all sorts of exotic grains (spelt, quinoa, rice, millet) have quickly cluttered the shelves in the pasta aisle. I imagine it will stay that way until the "gluten free" craze fades away. Seeing new interesting products on the shelves is exciting to me and definitely worth a try or two, even if I’m not gluten intolerant. Well, after a few tries (and it only took a few) I have concluded that taking away the gluten in pasta is like taking away the love in a marriage. A marriage without love is unpleasant and will ultimately break down and fall apart – likewise – pasta without gluten is pretty unpleasant too, and will also break down and fall apart. If you have ever made gluten free pasta, then you know what I am talking about.
Gluten is formed by the proteins present in wheat flour and develops with water when agitated. Gluten is the elasticity and extensibility essential to making breads and so many baked goods. It is what makes pasta so chewy and delicious. Since gluten is naturally formed by the protein in wheat products, flours that contain more protein develop gluten more easily, which is why one uses bread flour (which has a protein content of 11-13%) when they want a to develop the gluten for a chewy bread product, or uses cake flour (which has a protein content of 6-9%) when they don’t want to develop the glutens for a delicate cake and tender crumb. Traditional pasta is made from semolina, which comes from durum flour, which is milled from the endosperm of the durum wheat kernel. The endosperm makes up 83% of the total wheat kernel and has the largest amount of protein and starch. The rest of the wheat kernel is composed of the bran (14.5%), which contains the majority of the fiber and the germ (2.5 %), which contains the majority of the nutrients. This may be more information than you wanted to know about wheat, but what I am trying to make clear is that durum flour is made from the part of the wheat kernel devoid of the bran (fiber) and germ (nutrients) because it is the starch and protein from the endosperm that is so crucial to the development of gluten, which is essential to that wonderful chewy texture of traditional semolina pasta. Grains such as quinoa, rice, oats and spelt contain little or no gluten and therefore are biologically incapable of developing the elasticity and texture of any wheat product. It is the strands of gluten that hold everything together, which is why gluten free pastas fall apart.
Now, if you have to, or choose to eat a gluten free diet for health and dietary purposes that is one thing, but if you are like me and merely interested in trying out healthier pasta alternatives (remember durum pasta was stripped of much of its fiber and nutrients), I suggest opening a box of whole wheat pasta. Unlike durum flour, which is milled from only the endosperm of the wheat kernel, whole wheat flour is milled from the entire wheat kernel and therefore contains a higher amount of fiber, nutrients and protein. Whole wheat is not always used in pasta and other baked goods because it has a shorter shelf life, but mainly because it has a distinct flavor that is not always desired in the finished product. (Imagine eating a whole wheat cupcake under a cloud of chocolate buttercream – yuck!) However, there are many occasions where the nutty flavor of whole wheat is very appropriate and very welcomed. Pasta is one of those occasions. Whole wheat pasta has a distinct flavor that I find tastes best when brightened with complimenting ingredients rather than covered up with a heavy sauce. Whole wheat pasta does not contain as much gluten as semolina durum pasta, but has enough gluten that it will not completely fall apart. Though I have been arguing hard for the glories of gluten I also like to eat a diet high in fiber and nutrients and very often all of those tasty gluteny treats (cupcakes, bread, pizza and pasta) aren’t the most health conscious choice. When it comes to pasta I have found that whole wheat has just the right balance – it is healthy and nutritious yet won’t totally fall apart on me.
So without further ado, here are three whole wheat spaghetti dishes (my favorite whole wheat noodle) that boasts the wonderful and distinct flavor of whole wheat pasta.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Almond Parsley Pesto, Lemon
and Pecorino
Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta
Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Kale, Rainbow Chard, Fennel
and Pine Nuts



Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Almond Parsley Pesto, Lemon and Pecorino
Whole wheat pasta is a perfect choice for this robust pesto.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 3 cups flat leaf parsley, stems removed
- 1/2 cup raw sliced almonds
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
- pinch red pepper flakes
- 1/2 extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
- 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/3 cup grated Pecorino cheese, plus more for garnish
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 1/3 cup lemon juice
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti

To make the pesto, place the parsley, almonds, garlic, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes in a food processor. Pulse until the ingredients are finely chopped. With the machine running, pour the olive oil into the food processor in a slow and steady stream. When the mixture is smooth and creamy add the Parmesan cheese, Pecorino cheese, lemon zest and lemon juice. Pulse a few more times, until just combined. This mixture can be made up to a day ahead of time, but cover the top of the pesto with plastic wrap to prevent it from turning brown.
To make the pasta, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until tender, according to the package instructions. (I do not cook whole wheat pasta al dente or it is chalky and dry in the middle.) When the pasta done, drain and transfer into a large serving bowl. Toss the pesto into the warm pasta and drizzle over more extra virgin olive oil and garnish with the Pecorino cheese shavings. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta
The flavors of this dish were inspired from my favorite pizza toppings from a pizzeria located just across the street from the school I attended in Florence, Italy. Though there pizza was delicious, it was the spinach and ricotta on top of the pizza that I couldn’t get enough of. I make this dish over and over again because it makes a truly satisfying complete meal – wholesome wheat pasta, slightly caramelized onions and lots of dark spinach greens makes this dish hearty and filling, while creamy ricotta cheese brings out decadence that is balance out with earthy pine nuts and subtle kick from red pepper flakes. Plus, I can prepare everything for this dish in the time it takes for the pasta water to come to a boil.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 1 1/2 cups ricotta cheese
- zest of 1 lemon
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 1 medium white onion, sliced
- 2 shallots, diced
- 4 cloves garlic, diced
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
- 1 pound baby spinach, washed
- 1/3 cup pine nuts
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup freshly graded Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large serving dish, toss together the ricotta cheese and the lemon zest. Set aside.
In another medium/large pot heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil on medium heat. Add the onion, shallots, garlic and season with salt and pepper. Sauté the mixture on medium/low heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the red pepper flakes. Meanwhile, when the salted water comes to a boil, add the whole wheat spaghetti and cook until tender according to the directions on the package. Once the onions are soft, translucent and a bit caramelized, add 1/3 of the spinach and toss together with the onions. When the spinach has cooked down add another 1/3 of the spinach. Let that cook down, and add the last 1/3 of the spinach. When the pasta is tender add the pasta to the large serving dish with the ricotta cheese mixture. Add the spinach and onion mixture, pine nuts, extra virgin olive oil and Parmesan cheese to the pasta; Toss everything together and serve warm.

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Kale, Rainbow Chard,
Fennel and Pine Nuts

This simple pasta dish, full of nutrient rich ingredients, is a vegan spin off from my Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Spinach and Ricotta. Certainly you can add a bit of Parmesan cheese to this dish, but it doesn’t really need it. On nights when I want to forgo dairy for whatever the reason I am pleasantly reminded that I don’t need to cover up the flavors of my food, with whether it be cheese, butter, salt or pepper, or else I miss out on the depth of flavors in the real ingredients of the dish. Here sweet fennel and onions contrast well with the slightly bitter greens and allow the nuttiness of the whole wheat pasta to really shine through. This dish is definitely one to make in late fall or winter when you can find fresh extra virgin olive oil, which is typically harvested in late fall. Talk about flavor – fresh olive oil is spicy, fruity and pungent – it is the condiment Italians wait all year for to flavor their favorite dish.


Serves 6

Ingredients

- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 medium yellow onion, sliced
- 1 fennel bulb, cut in 1/2 inch pieces
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
- 1 pound whole wheat spaghetti
- 1 medium tomato, diced
- 1 bunch Kale (about 10 cups uncooked), washed, chopped
- 1 bunch Rainbow or Red Chard (about 10 cups), washed, chopped
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1/3 cup pine nuts
- salt
- fresh ground pepper

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large sauté pan heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil on medium heat. Add the onions and fennel and season with salt and pepper. Sauté the mixture on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion and fennel are soft and slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes.
Meanwhile, when the salted water comes to a boil, add the whole wheat spaghetti and cook until tender, according to the directions on the package. (Note: whole wheat pasta should not be cooked al dente as you would with semolina pasta. It should be tender and cooked all the way through, and not overcooked and gummy.)
Once the onions are soft, translucent and a bit caramelized, add the diced tomato, and chopped kale and chard. Season with salt and pepper and cover the pot with a lid or stir the greens with a spoon until they are wilted. When the greens are wilted and the pasta is cooked, toss everything together in a large serving bowl. Stir in the pine nuts and drizzle over the extra virgin olive oil. Serve warm.

2 comments:

  1. Just so you are clear, spelt does contain gluten (yet is water soluble and thus easier to digest). Some incredibly tasty products are made with spelt flour, but you have to know how to use it. It is one of the oldest cultivated grains and has a fantastic nutritional profile. You may want to check out the World's Healthiest Foods website on spelt to get a better idea about its value.

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  2. Thank you for your comment. I understand that spelt does in fact contain gluten and I agree that it is a wonderful nutrient rich grain. I am a huge fan of all different type of spelt products, especially spelt flour, which I use in my baked goods all of the time.

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